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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.